The Road Home

Like all vacations, they come to an end. And after spending a week in a Caribbean Socialist Paradise, it was time for my parents & I to head back to the snowed in Great White North. Our last day would not be wasted because our flight was scheduled to take off at 2300hrs (11:00pm), meaning we had to be ready for the bus at 1930 (7:30pm). As an added bonus, we were allowed to keep our room until 1600hrs (4pm), instead of 1200, the mandated check out time. All it took was effective negotiation by my mother. As I returned the borrowed towels, I wondered what the other guests do if they have seven hours to kill & no room to wait in? Most likely spend it at the bar. Should you find yourself in such a situation, you can store your luggage in a storage room located at the front of the hotel. Just keep the numbered cards the bell hops give you.

We spent the morning & early afternoon packing, reading, eating at the buffet, and leaving several clothing items behind. Tourists have been known to leave clothing and extra pesos for the hotel staff because the quality of the material is better and the staff do not make much money. If they don’t like what you leave them, they can still sell it for a hefty price on the black market.

At 1600, we bid farewell to our room, returned our keys to the main reception, and had our luggage put into temporary storage. We spent the next three hours loitering around the main lobby, reading, walking around, wishing the Internet wasn’t ancient dial-up (& not working), and trying to speed up time by drinking Cuba Libres.

Finally, our bus arrived at 1930hrs ‘Cuban Time’ (1945hrs), and we tossed our luggage in the bottom compartments before boarding. Of course, the bus drove to several more hotels to pick up more tired tourists. Unfortunately, the Cuban who was leading the bus thought it would be fun to lead everyone in a sing-a-long, followed by a ‘brief’ history of Cuba – which everyone has already heard! I can honestly say I wasn’t the only tourist who wanted him to be quiet & let us rest. Luckily I had my earplugs with me.

Once off the bus, we loaded our baggage onto a cart I snatched, and walked into the terminal, only to be greeted by a very long line of tourists. If yesterday’s flights to Toronto & Montreal hadn’t been cancelled due to adverse weather then the line to the Sunwing kiosks would have been smaller. Surprisingly, after 30 minutes, we made it to the front, checked in our luggage, and received our boarding passes. Next on the list was paying the 25 CUC departure tax. I wasn’t surprised because after 9/11, every international airport has a departure tax in place to pay for . . . I don’t know what.

I had to abandon my water bottle before going through security which only consisted of two metal detectors & x-ray machines. The Varadero terminal needs to expand; they only have 4 gates. After being waved through, we noticed a large billboard displaying 5 Cubans on trial in Miami. They didn’t say for what but the billboard went on about how unjust it was & that they should be released immediately. My guess was that the Cuban men were on trial for espionage, spying on the Cuban communities in Miami.

The departure area was packed with passengers because of yesterday’s cancelled flights to Toronto & Montreal. They would be flying out tonight like we were. The smoke from Cuban cigars made it tough to breathe. Luckily we found three vacant seats to sit & wait for our flight to be announced. The tumultuous atmosphere died down when the people on the Toronto & Montreal flights left. After another 15 minutes, our flight was announced at Gate 2 . . . which just happened to be on the other side of the departure area. Boarding didn’t take long and we made our way to the back of the plane. Next thing I knew, the plane was in the air & heading for Ottawa.

The flight back home was mostly uneventful, but not as stressful when we were flying to Cuba. To me, the flight back home is always the better flight. From what I remember, the midnight snack was mostly edible, and we were given a complimentary cup (not glass) of champagne. My only complaint was that the head stewardess had trouble talking in French. After three hours, the plane touched safely in the cold capital, the captain informing us that it was -4 outside. Getting through Customs & picking up our luggage didn’t take long, and we quickly threw on extra layers of clothing before leaving the terminal.

Just like in Cuba, we were hit with the sudden change in temperature; in this case, it was the numbing cold. We got into a taxi and were dropped off at our house by the emotionless driver. Once inside, the first we did, was unpack the Cuban rum, and make ourselves rum & cokes. We toasted our vacation ‘The End’.

Overall, our trip to Cuba was fun & enjoyable. I encourage everyone to go see the socialist utopia before the Castros leave power. However, I do wish to stress that you go there with an open mind. Yes, being asked to tip is constant but don’t let it get to you. Just be aware that it’s a different corner of the world and things are done differently. The Cuban authorities are on your side because you’re a tourist bringing in hard currency. And make sure to bring a calculator when you go to a Cadeca to exchange your foreign money for convertible pesos (CUC). There are stories of the tellers skimming a peso or two for themselves.

Viva Cuba!

La Arcadia

That evening, my parents & I had made reservations to have dinner at a restaurant named La Arcadia, located across the 24 hour bar at our hotel. As always, we had to be casually dressed and wearing proper shoes. Since this was our first time eating there, all we knew was that we would have to pay for the wine.

Upon opening the door for my parents, I was taken aback by the formal setting. The place was dimly lit, and filled with the classical sounds of a string quartet. It reminded me of Le Café and Wilfred’s back in Ottawa. As the bald middle aged waiter escorted us to our table, I realized I was underdressed; the black pants were fine but I was wearing a Linkin Park t shirt. If I had known earlier, I would have worn a collared shirt. I could have run back to our room to change but decided to stick with it . . . and hope I didn’t get thrown out.

While I my mother picked out a house wine for 10 CUC, I scanned the wine list to find the most expensive item, turning out to be a French Chardonnay for 200 CUC. As for food, you choose 2 appetizers, a main course, followed by dessert. The waiters knew basic English, so I just pointed at what I wanted & everything was fine. I could tell that this was going to be a royal kind of dinner.

The waiter first came with a bowl of bread & the house wine, presenting it to my mother to try out. She declined & passed on the responsibility to me. After a brief taste, the wine won my approval and we were left with the bottle & three big glasses. As we waited for our appetizers, we listened to the string quartet play a variety of classical pieces, from Baroque to Romantic. After several pieces, the leader would walk to a table & ask for any requests. Our appetizers, onion soup & salad, arrived at the same time, and tasted great.

For the main course, I had lamb, my mother had pasta, and my father had fish. Once again they were delivered at the same time and with another bottle of white house wine. By this time, the head of the string quartet approached our table and asked for any requests, to which my mother replied, ‘Something by Vivaldi.’ The result was Spring from Vivaldi’s Four Seasons. The food definitely tasted like 5 stars except there wasn’t enough of it – the major downside to culinary arts. I guess it’s supposed to force people eat slowly and participate more in table conversations.

Once our table was cleared, we received our dessert menus. My father & I chose a cheesecake while my mom decided on a flaming crème brulee. As a bonus, my mom was treated to a preparation performance by the waiter, reminding me of the chef at the Sakura restaurant. The flame reached a noticeable height, prompting looks from other tables. As we enjoyed our treats, the head chef appeared at a table behind us, talking to a couple who had wanted to thank him personally for the meals.

And just like that, the dinner was over & it was time to leave. We thanked the waiters for their services & left them 6 CUC as a tip. As for the string quartet, since they were so good, we left them 20 CUC. Add the two bottles of wine, we spent 46 CUC. It would have been more if we had to pay for the food. Nevertheless, dining at La Arcadia made me feel like a politician who uses taxpayers money to eat at fancy restaurants. If you find yourself staying at Melias Las Americas, give La Arcadia a try. Just make sure you’re dressed well.

Xanadu & Golf

Golf is not a sport that I particularly follow. Sure, putting & going to the driving range can be fun, but playing a full 18 hole game is something I don’t think I can do. It certainly doesn’t look appealing on television . . . because you’re either watching the sky or listening to the grass growing. What I’m getting at is that if there are any golf enthusiasts reading this post, you’ll be happy to know that Melias Las Americas sits next to the Varadero Golf Club. Just rent out a cart, some balls, & clubs, and you’re all set for a match. There’s not much else I can say except wear sunscreen because it’s pretty scorching out in the open. Oh, & don’t hit anyone with your ball.

Overlooking the expansive golf course is the former Mansion Xanadu, a three storey white & green villa that was built for American millionaire Alfred Dupont in 1929. The chosen Cuban architects were Govantes & Cabarrocas, the same two who had designed the Capitolio building in Havana. The Revolution of 1959 forced Dupont to flee Cuba, leaving the mansion to the newly established communist government. Castro & his socialist cronies turned the villa into an elegant restaurant specializing in French cuisine. The villa still contains the old furniture & books that Dupont left behind.

When my father & approached the mansion for a closer inspection, the architecture appeared Japanese to me. Unfortunately, we were unable to get a tour of the villa at that time. If we had more time, my parents & I would have tried to reserve a lunch or dinner at Xanadu. It’s nice to eat like a rich person.

The sea was quite restless that day, with large waves crashing onto the beach, and strong winds pushing dark clouds to shore. From what I remember, I think it rained in the afternoon. Before the rain arrived, my parents & I just wasted time, lying on the beach and reading books. Doing nothing, (which is actually doing something), can feel so refreshing.

Sakura

The 5-star, adults only hotel, Melias Los Americas, offers many food devouring venues. (When it’s 5 stars, consumption is high). As mentioned in previous posts, there is the main buffet, 24 hour bar, and several themed restaurants. On the night following our Havana Day Excursion, my parents & I had reserved to eat at the Japanese restaurant named Sakura. The restaurant occupies a separate building behind one of the pools & has a large welcoming statue of Buddha.

We entered the dimly lit restaurant and were escorted by a Cuban waitress dressed in a Japanese robe to a large square table that seated around 12 people. In the centre sat two large grills that would be used by the chef. The other tourists who sat with us were from Canada, England, Australia, and I think the USA.

First course was the appetizers, Miso soup & sushi, served with your choice of beer or wine. The soup was quite good but to me it can’t rival China’s Wonton Soup. As for the sushi, it was presented in culinary art form, meaning more plate & not enough food. We each received 4 pieces with wasabi, ginger, and soy sauce. I equally distributed the wasabi & ginger over the 4 pieces and happily ate them with my chop sticks. There were forks on hand for those who couldn’t eat with chop sticks. If you ever have a stuffed nose, eat sushi with wasabi. Breathe in the wasabi aroma through your nose & it’ll clear everything inside with a burning sensation.

The chef arrived everyone finished their appetizers & began preparing the main course. He looked French to me rather than Cuban, and I assumed that he had received his training overseas. The more I watched him work his ‘magic’ on the grills, the more I realized why we were given so little sushi; the main course contained chicken, beef, rice, various vegetables, and several sauces. Of course, he did the favourite ‘high rising flame’ trick before serving the main course first to the ladies, then to the men. I have to say, but the meal was pretty good, convincing you that you were indeed staying at a 5 star resort. Except I had this peculiar feeling that water had been added to the white wine.

Well, long story short, I couldn’t finish the main course because there was still desert. I really should have skipped lunch that day. Everyone applauded the chef for preparing the main course just as he was about leave. Once he left, our table was cleared, and the waitresses served desert which was a hot ice cream ball pastry. Best to eat it before the ice cream turns into soup.

Overall, the three course Japanese meal was pretty good in my mind, and I recommend it to those who stay at Melia Los Americas. Just bring a big appetite and an empty stomach because there is a lot to sample.

As my parents & I were leaving, I thanked the chef for the meal and tipped him with a 3 CUC paper bill. We walked around the compound, enjoying the nightly warm weather & the sounds of the distant waves crashing onto the beach.

Centro Habana

Central Havana was initially designed as a lush green residential area beyond the old city walls back in the 1800s. With the passage of time, the area has become the bustling downtown of Havana, where government offices, hotels, and the main train station are located. Very little of the old city walls remain as they were torn down to make way for urban development.

Our first stop in Central Havana was the grand Capitolio building, erected in 1929 and the centre of Cuban government until the Revolution in 1959. The Neo-Classic/Art Deco monument is a larger imitation of the Washington DC Capital building, now housing the Ministry of Science, Technology, and the Environment. For nature lovers, the Parque de la Fraternidad sits next to the Capitolio, built in 1892 to celebrate the 400th anniversary of the discovery of America.

We were given an hour to walk around and snap photographs. You can go inside the Capitolio but it requires going through a security checkpoint. Getting to the entrance requires traversing up huge marble steps and dodging people who use the steps as seats. I was more interested in photographing the views from the top: old fashioned cars, horse carriages rides, people, statues, and city architecture. If it’s one thing Havana’s buildings need, it’s paint, and lots of it. Just before leaving, the Chinese couple that we had lost earlier, showed up on another tour bus. Apparently, once they realized that we were gone, they went to another tour bus whose driver started radioing around to see to which bus they belonged to. Victor would have heard if he had turned up the volume on his radio.

The last place Tour Guide Tony took us for the day was to a flea market in Habana Vieja that was located in an old warehouse on the waterfront. He gave us until 5pm to walk around and shop for souvenirs. This flea market is like North America’s Costco but with many Cubans selling their goods from white sheds that are provided by the city. Toys, cigars, rum, food, clothes, candy, paintings, and washrooms can all be found here. Sellers sit in plastic chairs and wait for any opportunity to sell something. Similar to the GAP, it’s impossible to walk around the entire place & not be approached by a seller. The prices are a bit higher but since Cubans are eager to sell, they can be bargained down and/or bartered down with North American goods.

Even though I didn’t buy anything, it was still an experience to see what was being sold. Particularly interesting were the cigar cases because they came with built in humidifiers, so it would be possible to preserve the cigars to the highest quality until they’re smoked. The built in humidifiers also explained the higher prices (40+ CUC).

With our time up, my parents & I happily boarded the tour bus for the evening trip back to the resort. An older tour guide who knew Tony, decided to hitch a ride back home on our bus and sat next to me until we reached Matanzas. The ride back was quiet, dark, and uneventful. Tony chatted with Victor while everyone else slept; some guy a few seats back snored loudly. Since falling asleep in the seating position only worked when I was in school, I just stared out into the night, watching the Cuban scenery pass me by.

Overall, I have to say that the Havana Day Excursion was fun & worth the 67 CUC (per person). Tony was a good tour guide despite having to talk according to restrictive rules set down by the autocratic government. It should be mentioned that one cannot see all of Havana in one day. Like my mother realized after the excursion, the best way to see most of Havana would be to stay there for at least a week or two. Just make sure you have enough money and an open mind. Don’t let the cultural differences & local nuisances get to you.

End of Havana Day Excursion Series.

Vedado

The restaurant turned out to be a lot further away than I had anticipated. For lunch, we would be eating at the Shanghai Restaurant, located in the Vedado District. To get there requires driving through Centro Habana (Central Havana). Victor drove the bus along the Malecon Promenade, a main roadway that hugs the northern coastline. The Malecon was originally designed to be a grand pedestrian walkway by the Americans in 1901. Tall hotels & residential towers line this promenade, trying to emulate the Miami Beach skyline.

The architecture of Havana began to change as we drove, going from Hispanic-Andalusian to the styles associated with the Soviet Union. Tour Guide Tony talked about the layout of the city centre & pointed out several important buildings such as the Hotel Nacional, and a state hospital where Michael Moore filmed several scenes for his documentary Sicko.

After driving for some time, Victor drove off the main road and parked the bus near an abandoned dilapidated building that Tony humourously dubbed the Canadian Embassy. The Shanghai Restaurant had reserved an entire corner for our tour group, and my parents & I shared a table with a couple from Halifax. From what I remember, we had a fine chicken dish with Cuban beer. While we ate & talked, a stray cat wandered from table to table, looking cute in the hopes of getting food. And of course, there was live music. The musical trio didn’t become a problem until the lady started asking for tips & if we wanted to buy their CD. There’s also a cigar/rum shop in the same building for those wanting to buy genuine Cuban cigars & rum. I didn’t step inside but I’m guessing the prices were cheaper than back at the tourist resorts.

With lunch out of the way, we headed back into the heart of the city towards Plaza de la Revolicion (Revolution Square). On the way, we passed one of the main entrances to Columbus Cemetery, also known as the Necopolis de Colon. The ‘Dead Centre of Havana’ is in the shape of a square and one of the largest cemeteries in the world, with 53,360 plots spread across 135 acres. We’ll have to wait until the next trip to visit this place.

Upon arriving at Revolution Square, we were only given 5 minutes to photograph the square & the monuments surrounding it. The sun was shining brightly, clearly letting me see that the square needed to be repaved. It is here where military parades & official celebrations are held every year, with up to a million people attending to hear their leaders speak ‘forever’ about whatever. The previous leader, Fidel Castro, likes to talk a lot and his speeches have last for several hours. One of his speeches at the United Nations clocked in at 4 hours & 32 minutes!

In front of the square stands the 139m (458ft) tall Jose Marti Memorial celebrating Cuba’s national hero. It is a five pointed tower made of grey marble that was completed in 1958. At the foot of the tower sits an 18m (59ft) statue of Jose Marti. If there was time, I would have taken the lift to the observation deck. Directly opposite the Memorial is the Ministry of Interior, a building famous for having a huge bronze wire sculpture of Che Guevara that was erected in 1995. Next to the building is the Ministry of Informatics and Communications (MINCOM) building that also has a bronze wire sculpture but of Cuban revolutionary Camilo Cienfuegos. But the most appealing building for me was the Ministry of Defence, which sits next to the Jose Marti Memorial. Maybe next time, I’ll get to see Parliament.

With no time left, my father & I boarded the tour bus and we were off towards the Capitolio building in Centro Habana.

To Be Continued . . .

Habana Vieja

We emerged from the tunnel in the historic heart of Havana; Habana Vieja. The first building to greet us was the Spanish Embassy to our right, and the first monument was to our left; a large horseman sitting on top of a podium. The bus continued to drive south along the harbour front, letting us take in the views of La Cabana fortress, fishing boats, cargo vessels, and the sheer size of the port.

The walking tour with Tour Guide Tony would begin at Plaza de San Francisco, a small commercial square where the old Customs House & Stock Exchange are located. Before disembarking, Tony warned us about the 4 kinds of ‘harassment’ tourists may face: 1) Cubans sketching you for pesos; 2) Ladies in traditional dresses wanting to get a photo with you for pesos; 3) People with large cigars wanting to get photographed for pesos; 4) and Cubans begging for spare pesos. The good news he added was that once you say no & shake your head, they back off without a word.

As Tony led us to the square, I gazed around at the mix of old & new cars driving about, the docked cruise ship Europa, and a police officer holding a 12-guage shotgun. The square is small but bustling with activity ranging from workers restoring buildings to the 4 ‘harassments’ I just mentioned. After speaking for several minutes, we moved north, exploring the side streets. Old cannons and cannon balls are used as road barriers to prevent vehicles from traveling on certain roads. Many buildings in this area are finally being repaired after being neglected for decades due to lack of money. Being declared a heritage site by UNESCO has been a huge boost to the city.

Our tour group spent several minutes inside a secluded courtyard used as a restaurant, and cigar shop, where Tony talked more about cigars & which ones to buy. The tourists who’re more interested in site seeing waited patiently with frowns on their faces. Just before leaving, I snapped a picture of a camouflaged peacock that was sitting on some vines.

Next stop was the Plaza De Arma, a spacious square surrounded by Baroque buildings, filled with palm trees, and stocked with books. There are bookstands everywhere, making you feel like you’re in an outdoor Spanish Chapters store. In the centre of the plaza sits a large marble statue of Carlos Manuel, a Cuban planter who freed his slaves and made the declaration for Cuban Independence in 1868. The oldest military structure in Havana, the Castillo de la Real Fuerza, is just a few steps away from the plaza, and proudly standing since the 16^th century. We were also shown the small Neo-Classical shrine El Templete where it is believed to be where the city of San Cristobal de la Habana was founded back in 1599. There is a large mural inside the temple, depicting the first mass that was held at the spot, and a sacred tree at the front where money offerings can be left.

Tour Guide Tony led us two blocks west of the Plaza De Arms to the Hotel Ambos Mundos, located just across the former Ministry of Education. The hotel is famous for being the residence of American writer Ernest Hemingway during the early 20^th century. A corner of the main lobby is dedicated to Hemingway, displaying many portraits of him living at the hotel. As explained by Tony, Hemingway drank mojitos in the morning, and dakaris in the afternoon. Tasty, but deadly on a regular basis. To honour the writer, we all ordered mojitos for 3 pesos at the lobby bar.

Just as my parents & I sat down to drink, we were interrupted by music from outside. I dashed out to check out the commotion and photographed a band accompanied with dancers on stilts marching up the street. It was quite a spectacle, watching the dancers chasing each other, and the band playing lively music. It looked like it had something to do with evil spirits.

Last stop before lunchtime was the Plaza de la Catedral. Here you find: the Baroque styled Catedral de San Cristobal, a national monument; the Museum of Colonial Art; & the Paris Restaurant. We were given 30 minutes to roam the premises & explore the church before heading back to the bus that was parked not too far away. My mother chose this opportunity to find a Cadeca & exchange our Canadian money for pesos. After photographing the square & walking around the church, there wasn’t much to do except watch a busker perform with his dress up dogs. Speaking of animals, there are a lot of stray dogs & cats in Havana, either laying out in the hot sun, and/or walking around looking for food.

My parents & I got on the bus just in time, only to wait for another 25 minutes because a Chinese couple failed to show up. Tony had gone back to the place where he set us free but was unable to find them. The bus couldn’t wait any longer because we risked losing our reservations at the restaurant. As Victor drove the bus deeper into the city, everyone wondered how the missing couple would find us or get back to their hotel at the end of day.

To Be Continued . . .